A comment I often hear from new customers is:
"I think I should start with Goldfish and when Iíve got that sussed Iíll have a go at tropical fish".
The truth of the matter is that Tropical fish are every bit as easy as Goldfish to look after and it takes no extra skills, the maintenance schedule is the same for both types of fish, and although they eat different foods the feeding pattern is the same.
The only major difference is that a tropical aquarium has a heater, and again this is not something to fear, heaters are as simple as set and forget. All heaters have built in thermostats and will maintain a preset temperature without any involvement from you; they simply cut in when the temperature falls below the preset setting (usually around 24 degrees Celsius) heat the water and switch off when having reached the preset temperature.
An important point to note, and one that I often have to clarify with customers is that a heater is not a refrigeration unit, in hot weather if the ambient temperature is above the heaters preset temperature for long enough then the aquarium will also rise in temperature without any input fom the heater, and turning your heater off during such occasions will have absolutely no effect on lowering the temperature of the aquarium. Leave your heater alone during these times.
At Manly Aquarium World we have an extensive range of Tropical freshwater fish and at any given time have around 5000 fish in stock, included in the vast selection on hand are varieties such as Gouramis, coryodoras catfishes, Angels, Dozens of Tetra types, Loaches, Algae eating catfishes, many native fish including Rainbows, Freshwater Sharks and many many other types of fish to numerous to list. I might add that those who come and peruse our extensive range of fish never leave disappointed and in fact in most cases donít leave empty handed.
Our highly knowledgeable and attentive staff are always on hand to offer you advice on what varieties are compatible with each other and the correct feeding and care of your new tank inhabitants, our philosophy has always been,
"The more successful you are the more successful we are"
All our staff are highly trained on all aspects of Goldfish care, be it in relation to setting up a bowl or Aquarium, proper feeding, correct maintenance, fish selection or any other related issues. We also have on staff our own Koi expert with many years breeding experience, he selectively raises his Koi and exhibits often winning prizes for the quality and perfect markings of his fish. We have a selection of these and other Koi available for purchase from our store.
This Goldfish display centre consiting of 18 seperate tanks forms part of our extensive Goldfish and Koi selection
Goldfish Tanks
A Word From Our Koi Expert
During the 20 something years dealing with Koi Carp, our Koi expert has been asked almost every conceivable question in relation to the successful keeping of Koi. Here are a few of the most commonly asked questions and there answers.
Q1) how big should my filter be in relation to my pond size? And what important issues must be noted in function and usage of my filter?
A1) Ideally when designing a pond and filter system, a filter with a media area equivalent to around 20% of your water volume is suitable however this also depends on the type of biological media being used. An important functional feature to build into a pond would be to have a bottom drain and sediment Koi Carpchamber. The sediment chamber does not have any filtering material placed in it. Its function is simply for larger particles of sedimentary waste to settle in it. (When cleaning this can be sucked out through your drain or by syphoning off using a hose) The pick up for your filter (Which often incorporates the pump) should be located above this chamber so that the water, free of large particles can move on to the next stage of filtration. During the next stage of filtration the water is pumped into the filter chamber where the water rises through the media, spilling over at the top and running back into the pond either via a cascade, waterfall or hose. Many variations on this theme abound and what shape your filter ultimately takes will be determined by your budget, location and pond design.
Q2) how do I know if there is enough oxygen in the water? And if not what type of aeration should I use? Also how much water should I have flowing through my filter?
A2) Firstly on the issue of water flow through your filter; it is wise to at least turn your water over once per hour, more is recommended. CometSecondly, a good indicator of a lack of oxygen would be fish gasping at the surface and general lethargy, also in relation to oxygen, you will probably find that a once per hour flow rate is not enough to provide optimum levels of oxygen for your fish, especially given that Koi are such large user of oxygen. An aerator providing you with a number of vigorously flowing outlets diffused through air stones and placed throughout your pond will help to give an ideal environment for maximum growth, colour and activity. Large capacity aerators are available from our store.
Q3) how much do I feed my Koi? And what types of food should I use?
A3) At temperatures below 10 degrees Celsius no feeding is required, temperatures 12-15C A food high in Wheat germ, once a day. Temperatures 16-19C a good quality pellet twice a day. Temperatures 20-25C feed three to four times a day, again on a quality pellet low in Wheat germ. At temperatures 26-29C Koi CarpHigh protein food up to 5 times a day. Above these temps little or no food should be given. It must be stressed that in feeding fish at any time no more food than they can completely consume within a few minutes should be given
Koi also enjoy treats like; Lettuce, Cabbage, Watermelon (remove seeds) Peas, Pasta, Rice, Brown bread amongst other things. Please NOTE; Your filter and its bacterial colonies are under greater load in summer due to heavier feeding, so care must be taken not to exacerbate this problem with careless over feeding!
Q4) during the four seasons how will my Koi act? And what behaviour should I expect in Australian climate?
A4) Summer: This is the growing season for Koi and as we mentioned earlier it is important to feed high protein foods. It is also the breeding season. Males will chase and bump into Females, this is normal behaviour when breeding commences.
Note: It is not wise to try and breed your Koi in your main pond with other fish present. If your serious about breeding take the Male and Female out and place them in another pond on their own. You may notice froth starting to appear on the surface of the breeding pond, donít worry this is normal and it is an indicator that the male is getting ready to breed.
Partial water changes every 2 weeks is also recommended in summer to maintain healthy water.
Autumn: With the cooler weather coming your Koi will be eating less and taking things easier as they recover from the breeding season.
Winter: During this season the Koi are at their least active. They donít eat much, donít swim much or look all that alert, donít panic they are still quite healthy, even if you donít see them swimming. Part of the reason for this is that they will stay deeper in the pond where the water is actually warmer.
Spring: During this season the Females will start to become fat as they develop eggs inside them, in preparation for the coming breeding season.
Q5) what should I look for on a daily basis to ensure my Koi are happy and healthy?
A5) Schooling together, alert and looking for food.
Q6) What are a few important tips about keeping Koi in Australia?
A6) Number one: Water quality! Again this relates to filter size, oxygen levels, PH levels which should be around 7.4 and carbonate hardness which should be 150-200ppm.
We like Cichlids so much that we would appreciate the opportunity to service and maintain your Cichlid community.
Did You Know The family of Cichlids or Cichlidae are found in Africa, Central America and the tropical areas of South America.
In their wild state, most Cichlids live in slow moving to still waters where there are a lot of good hiding places to be found. Such as along banks, among tree roots, submerged branches, heaps of stones or in dense plant growth. Most species are territorial in nature, laying claim to an area which they will defend against intruders, especially during mating season.
Most species are predatory in nature, feeding on smaller fishes and insects- and yes, even other Cichlids.
In the aquarium, Cichlids are not fussy about food.
Every kind of live food will be devoured greedly and some dried food should be given for variety
.
Many species will eat red meat. The vegetarian variety of Cichlids such as the Tilapia require fresh lettuce, boiled spinach, porridge and algae. Cichlids typically have a voracious appetite and will overeat if allowed. Overfeeding is a common problem.
Possibly the most popular of fresh water tropical fish kept by aquarists.
Cichlids are us. We keep an extensive range of these beautiful fish.
And if we don't have it in stock at the moment: we can order it in for you.
Here at Manly Aquarium World we have had over 30 years experience with Marine
(saltwater) fish and their habitats, we are expertly placed to offer you advice and help with the design, manufacture and installation of your system. Our service and maintenance person is a qualified Marine Biologist.
We carry an extensive range of products specifically designed to make your hobby as a Marine aquarist a rewarding and fulfilling one.
Fundamental to keeping any Marine fish alive in a closed system like an Aquarium is having an understanding of the critical role Bacteria play in the whole thing, without very large colonies of these Bacteria Marine fish keeping is almost impossible.
With a greater worldwide understanding over last 10 ñ 20 years of the important role "good" bacteria play, it is no wonder Marine fish keeping is now easier than at any time in the past, there are many new and innovative products designed to make keeping these fish successful.
An example of this is the Eheim 2227 and 2229 wet/dry filters which make it possible to turn any existing aquarium into a fully biologically active marine system without any modifications to the existing aquarium, these are ideal for people with an existing aquarium who may be looking at moving up from freshwater fish keeping. Of course there are the traditional systems, which are designed and built to your specific requirements.
Our expert aquarium builder with over 15 years of aquarium manufacture behind him has designed his own unique weir system for the tank and also a special version wet/dry filter to suit, there are currently large numbers of these in use throughout our large customer base that are proving failsafe and 100% reliable.
Another major area of advancement is the one of lighting and again there have been huge advances both in fluorescent and Metal Halide lighting systems for Marine aquariums making the keeping of exotic corals and annenomies possible.
If you are interested in making further enquires about purchasing products or keeping Marine fish as a hobby, drop into the shop sometime or give us a call or perhaps email us, though if your enquiry relates to the purchase of one of our systems then this is much better done in person or over the phone as there are many questions to ask in order that we tailor the system to your exact requirements.